Knitting a gauge swatch...I know what you're thinking, "Ugh, I’m too excited! I just want to start my knitting pattern!" or "Why should I knit this anyway?” I was just like you once. While it can be a little tedious to knit a gauge swatch (or two, or three!) there are several important reasons why you should.
Each pattern provides important information in the beginning: skills required, sizes, measurements, materials needed, and gauges. The specific yarn used when writing the pattern is stated. Designers use this yarn to knit a swatch. The swatch is what the designer uses to make design choices and obtain the gauge. The gauge is used to make all the mathematical decisions needed to make a garment fit correctly and provides the necessary information to calculate the sizes and measurements.
What a Gauge Watch means for the Knitter
Knitting a gauge swatch and making adjustments until you reach the correct gauge is necessary to ensure you get the results as written in the pattern. If the correct gauge is not obtained, your garment will not fit correctly. It could be too big or too small.
Choosing the Correct Yarn
After choosing a pattern, the most exciting part of starting a new knitting project is picking the yarn! Using the specific yarn stated in the pattern will give the best results for what is being made. However, if you are anything like me, you may want to shop your stash first. Knitting a swatch in the yarn you’d like to substitute will help you know if the yarn will behave in the same way as the yarn stated in the pattern. Does it drape the same? Is it smooth enough or too fuzzy? Is the pattern strong enough to show through the colorway? These are all important questions to obtain the same look as the designer intended for the pattern.
While knitting a swatch helps determine how the yarn will behave, it is also used to find the gauge. Not all yarns are created the same way. Because of this, even though a yarn is listed as worsted weight it might not yield the same gauge. The Craft Yarn Council has created a standardized yarn weight system. Each yarn weight is determined by the number of stitches that can be knit or crocheted over an inch on the stated needle size. The number of stitches is listed as range. If the yarn falls into that range, it is considered that weight yarn. For instance, Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Worsted yarn states there are 4.5-5 stitches per inch on #6-9 needles and Knit Picks Dishie yarn states there are 4.5 stitches per inch on #7-8 needles. They are both considered worsted weight yarn, however, the stitches per inch and the needle sizes for each yarn are slightly different. Using the same needle to knit a swatch for these two yarns could lead to different gauges even though they are both considered worsted weight.
Choosing the Correct Size
Have you ever skipped knitting the swatch and started knitting a garment, only to realize that it isn't going to fit properly? I know I have. The garment may be either too loose or too tight, even though I'm positive I picked the right size according to the schematics and followed all the directions exactly. This is where knitting a gauge swatch can help.
Choosing the right yarn is important, but so is tension. Each person knits differently; some people are tight knitters and others are loose knitters. Tension can impact the gauge thus impacting the fit of the garment. Knitting flat or in the round also impacts tension. Knitting the gauge swatch exactly as stated is necessary to obtain the most accurate results. Using the gauge swatch, the knitter can decide if adjusting the needle size is the best way to obtain the correct gauge or if knitting a different size would make better sense. Sometimes, if the yarn weight is not too heavy and the gauge count is very close, going up or down a size can work. However, I strongly recommend obtaining the correct gauge for the best results.
Blocking
Blocking is one of the most important steps in checking gauge. Be sure to read the pattern carefully. If it says to block before checking the gauge make sure to do it! Yarn can shrink or relax after blocking. Depending on how the yarn behaves when blocked, the stitch count could be wrong. This is especially important when substituting a yarn from the one stated in the pattern. I always recommend blocking even if it isn't specifically stated to do so.
Knitting a gauge swatch is a time saver and a crucial knitting tool. Using it will confirm that the yarn used is of the proper colorway, texture, and thickness to flatter the chosen pattern. Ideally, the yarn should behave similarly to the intended yarn to achieve the same effect. It also ensures that the proper needle size is used and the correct pattern size is being worked. Knitting a gauge swatch will help you become a better knitter.
How to Knit a Gauge Swatch
1. Check your pattern!
Read over the pattern to determine specific gauge swatch instructions.
2. Cast on Swatch
If the gauge is given for four inches, cast on that number of stitches plus about six extras. I like to leave a three-stitch garter border on all sides of my swatches to help them lay flat. Knit three rows then begin the stitch pattern for the gauge swatch, working the first and last three stitches in garter stitch. If no pattern is given, then knit stockinette stitch. Finish with three more rounds of knit, binding off after the last round.
If the gauge is given for one inch, multiply that number by four to obtain the number of stitches to cast on. Round up to a whole number if necessary. Then follow the directions above to create a swatch.
3. Block
Wet or steam block your swatch. Be sure it has dried completely before measuring.
4. Measure
Using a ruler or stitch gauge, measure the number of stitches and rows over four inches excluding the garter stitch border. Does your gauge exactly match the one provided in the pattern? If your answer is yes, that’s great!! You are ready to move on to knitting the pattern. If your answer is no, move on to Step 5.
5. Repeat
Don’t get discouraged! Several gauge swatches might be needed until the correct yarn and gauge are found. Repeat until it’s correct! Remember working a gauge swatch for a day or two will save you weeks of work later. Imagine if you spent a whole month knitting an entire sweater, only to find out it was way too small because you did not take the time to check your gauge. That would be devastating! Save time and knit a gauge swatch (or two or three!)
Swatch Knitting Tips
After knitting your swatch,
1. if your gauge is smaller than the stated gauge, try using larger needles.
2. if your gauge is larger than the stated gauge, try using smaller needles.
Good luck! It is worth all the effort!
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